How do i clean a tuning capacitor

[big boy now]

I Have a Good Quality Antenna tuning unit. this has worked flawlessly for
many years. there are two variable tuning capacitors inside. but one of the
tuning capacitors has started getting a little stiff to turn compared to the
other when i say stiff i mean i can feel it dragging as i turn the dial.

what i want to know What is the best method / way to clean the two tuning
capacitors. to make then turn freely as they once did.
the two tuning capacitors look in as new condition and silver in colour. so
how can i clean them and clean right in side the vanes to restore them to
work like they should. there doesn't seem to bee any wear on them

John

[Nick]

Post by big boy now
I Have a Good Quality Antenna tuning unit. this has worked flawlessly for
many years. there are two variable tuning capacitors inside. but one of the
tuning capacitors has started getting a little stiff to turn compared to the
other when i say stiff i mean i can feel it dragging as i turn the dial.
what i want to know What is the best method / way to clean the two tuning
capacitors. to make then turn freely as they once did.
the two tuning capacitors look in as new condition and silver in colour. so
how can i clean them and clean right in side the vanes to restore them to
work like they should. there doesn't seem to bee any wear on them
John

It's more than likely that the spindles are dry.
A small amount of watchmakers oil applied
from syringe or a couple of drops on the end
of a pin or needle will suffice.

[Jock.]

Post by big boy now
I Have a Good Quality Antenna tuning unit. this has worked flawlessly for
many years. there are two variable tuning capacitors inside. but one of the
tuning capacitors has started getting a little stiff to turn compared to the
other when i say stiff i mean i can feel it dragging as i turn the dial.
what i want to know What is the best method / way to clean the two tuning
capacitors. to make then turn freely as they once did.
the two tuning capacitors look in as new condition and silver in colour. so
how can i clean them and clean right in side the vanes to restore them to
work like they should. there doesn't seem to bee any wear on them

Try to find someone who can put them through an ultrasonic bath.

Then lubricate the bearings lightly with clock oil.


Jock.

[ZZZPK]

"big boy now" <***@lycos.co.uk> wrote:

: I Have a Good Quality Antenna tuning unit. this has worked flawlessly for
: many years. there are two variable tuning capacitors inside. but one of the
: tuning capacitors has started getting a little stiff to turn compared to the
: other when i say stiff i mean i can feel it dragging as i turn the dial.
as other reply.

singer the sewing machine makers used to sell a small plastic bottle of
thin oil for use on their machines.


just a few drops...

:
: what i want to know What is the best method / way to clean the two tuning
: capacitors. to make then turn freely as they once did.
: the two tuning capacitors look in as new condition and silver in colour. so
: how can i clean them and clean right in side the vanes to restore them to
: work like they should. there doesn't seem to bee any wear on them
:
: John

if the vanes look as silvery as they used to then leave wel.l enough
alone.
keep your fingers off them too.
the small amount of grease on your fingers will catch dust and after a
while...you'll end up with grubby vanes ( not a pretty sight!)


if you must clean them... just blow the dirt off them

[Airy R.Bean]

_DON'T_ be tempted to use 3-in-1, because it will dry out
and gunge-up in only a few months, and then you'll be back where
you started.

Post by ZZZPK
: I Have a Good Quality Antenna tuning unit. this has worked flawlessly for
: many years. there are two variable tuning capacitors inside. but one of the
: tuning capacitors has started getting a little stiff to turn compared to the
: other when i say stiff i mean i can feel it dragging as i turn the dial.
as other reply.
singer the sewing machine makers used to sell a small plastic bottle of
thin oil for use on their machines.

[big boy now]

I need to know how to clean them
as it looks as if the previous owner has used normal oil on them
and one of them is in need of a good clean as it looks covered in oil
in between the vanes so how can i clean them of all the oil and dirt.
i have an oil that i use with my multi plyer sea fishing real.
this is very fine oil as it has to be fine oil to use in my fishing real.
this oil comes in various grades the finer the grade the faster the line
runs off the fishing real. this can be brought from any fishing shop...

So How can i give the variable capacitors a good old clean i want to remove
every little bit of dirt and oil.
then i will re oil the capacitors correctly...

john

Post by Airy R.Bean
_DON'T_ be tempted to use 3-in-1, because it will dry out
and gunge-up in only a few months, and then you'll be back where
you started.

Post by ZZZPK
: I Have a Good Quality Antenna tuning unit. this has worked flawlessly

for

Post by ZZZPK
: many years. there are two variable tuning capacitors inside. but one
of

the

Post by ZZZPK
: tuning capacitors has started getting a little stiff to turn compared
to

the

Post by ZZZPK
: other when i say stiff i mean i can feel it dragging as i turn the dial.
as other reply.
singer the sewing machine makers used to sell a small plastic bottle of
thin oil for use on their machines.

[Airy R.Bean]

Suggestion.... (be it on your own head if it fails!)

Remove capacitors from ATU.

Open vanes out fully.

Put them in your dishwasher for full hot cycle.

Take out of dishwasher and rinse thoroughly in copious
tap water.

Dry on central-heating radiator.

Re-grease or re-oil the bearings, checking that metallic
contact is preserved.

Do not use 3-in-1 oil. Try sewing-machine oil or clock oil.

(How to make your own clock oil - get hold of Neat's Foot
Oil** (Not Neat's Foot Oil Compound). Put into jam jar. Let
it stand for a year, then pipette off the thinner oils from the top.

Mix 50-50 with Johnson's Baby Oil. (Recipe from local
clock-maker/restorer))

** "Neat" is old Saxon word for cow. Essentially boiled-up cow hooves!

Post by big boy now
I need to know how to clean them
as it looks as if the previous owner has used normal oil on them
and one of them is in need of a good clean as it looks covered in oil
in between the vanes so how can i clean them of all the oil and dirt.
i have an oil that i use with my multi plyer sea fishing real.
this is very fine oil as it has to be fine oil to use in my fishing real.
this oil comes in various grades the finer the grade the faster the line
runs off the fishing real. this can be brought from any fishing shop...
So How can i give the variable capacitors a good old clean i want to remove
every little bit of dirt and oil.
then i will re oil the capacitors correctly...

[ZZZPK]

"Airy R.Bean" <***@privacy.net> wrote:

: Suggestion.... (be it on your own head if it fails!)

hmmmm... the man knows how to ''blem'' (cleam up).

[Starr]

Post by big boy now
I need to know how to clean them
as it looks as if the previous owner has used normal oil on them
and one of them is in need of a good clean as it looks covered in oil
in between the vanes so how can i clean them of all the oil and dirt.
i have an oil that i use with my multi plyer sea fishing real.
this is very fine oil as it has to be fine oil to use in my fishing real.
this oil comes in various grades the finer the grade the faster the line
runs off the fishing real. this can be brought from any fishing shop...

I use a cotton bud or sponged tipped pipe cleaner and servisol to clean dirt
and grease from components like air caps.

[MattD..]

On Friday 28 Jan 2005 13:03, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by Starr
I use a cotton bud or sponged tipped pipe cleaner and servisol to clean
dirt and grease from components like air caps.

The trouble with this method, Starr, is that it inevitably leaves residue,
no matter how much the makers of these solvents protest it won't, due to
contaminants already there. To really get them clean, as another poster
mentioned, one needs an ultrasonic bath. This ensures that the dislodged
muck is suspended in the solvent, not simply softened and moved around on
the vanes. Those can be picked up from eBay at fairly low cost these days.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=294&item=5746932314

I have no connection with the seller of this. There are other sellers who
sell these, usually along with SMT rework kit.

[Starr]

Post by MattD..
On Friday 28 Jan 2005 13:03, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by Starr
I use a cotton bud or sponged tipped pipe cleaner and servisol to clean
dirt and grease from components like air caps.

The trouble with this method, Starr, is that it inevitably leaves residue,
no matter how much the makers of these solvents protest it won't, due to
contaminants already there. To really get them clean, as another poster
mentioned, one needs an ultrasonic bath. This ensures that the dislodged
muck is suspended in the solvent, not simply softened and moved around on
the vanes. Those can be picked up from eBay at fairly low cost these days.

Though I don't doubt the accuracy of what you say at all, the method I have
used has never let me down. Servisol is about a quid (give or take) for a
tin and cotton buds or pipecleaners are inexpensive too and when I use them
the amount of gunge and oily residue removed is very noticeable. To me they
do the job even if they don't remove hundred percent.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=294&item=5746932314

A rather intriguing looking device. Far too high tech for me :) and my way
doesn't require removal of the dirty components from the appliance but
removing the dirt by using ultra sonic waves to shake it off is rather
interesting. :)

Post by MattD..
I have no connection with the seller of this. There are other sellers who
sell these, usually along with SMT rework kit.

I think the seller should look at the advert again though. He says he will
pay the postage on the but it now price but there is no but it now price or
buy it now one. :)

Post by MattD..
--
Radio glossary #29
Ladder line: The marks on the side of the house where your skin was removed
from your hands as the ladder slid down the wall whilst trying to put up the
latest aerial.

[MattD..]

On Friday 28 Jan 2005 15:43, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by Starr
I think the seller should look at the advert again though. He says he will
pay the postage on the but it now price but there is no but it now price
or buy it now one. :)

Indeed. I noticed that myself, otherwise I may have been tempted. i don't
currently have an ultrasonic bath and they're very useful when Mrs. Matt
drops her mobile down the toilet or leaves it out in the rain. :-)

[Starr]

Post by MattD..
On Friday 28 Jan 2005 15:43, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by Starr
I think the seller should look at the advert again though. He says he will
pay the postage on the but it now price but there is no but it now price
or buy it now one. :)

Indeed. I noticed that myself, otherwise I may have been tempted. i don't
currently have an ultrasonic bath and they're very useful when Mrs. Matt
drops her mobile down the toilet or leaves it out in the rain. :-)

I e-mailed him about it and he told me the buy it now price is £65 but he
still hasn't corrected the advert. hmmm.

Post by MattD..
--
Radio glossary #3
Power supply: A large piece of apparatus which acts as a broadband matching
network between your radio and any noise on the mains power system.

I love that one :)

[MattD..]

On Friday 28 Jan 2005 19:28, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by Starr
I e-mailed him about it and he told me the buy it now price is £65 but he
still hasn't corrected the advert. hmmm.

Another one here:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1502&item=5747428314

£28 plus a fiver-ish postage. That's more like it.

[Starr]

"MattD.." <***@gmail.com> wrote in message news:***@individual.net...
On Friday 28 Jan 2005 19:28, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by Starr
I e-mailed him about it and he told me the buy it now price is £65 but he
still hasn't corrected the advert. hmmm.

Another one here:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1502&item=5747428314

£28 plus a fiver-ish postage. That's more like it.

It is and the last guy you mentioned still hasn't fixed his page even though
I emailed him the problem. Do you ever get the feeling his heart isn't in
it?
Anyway!!!
This new one has a nicer advert and the buy it now price is excellent as you
say. Whether it works or not is another matter but surely it's your choice
which one you buy. Anyway I hope the one you pick is decent.

[l***@eternal-flames.gov]

Post by MattD..
Indeed. I noticed that myself, otherwise I may have been tempted. i don't
currently have an ultrasonic bath and they're very useful when Mrs. Matt
drops her mobile down the toilet or leaves it out in the rain. :-)

is that something she does on a regular basis? Is it a hobby perhaps?

Nick.

p.s. Your local friendly neighbourhood watch-repairer, may be willing
to give it a bath for you.

[MattD..]

On Friday 28 Jan 2005 19:43, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

is that something she does on a regular basis?  Is it a hobby perhaps?

She only does it when she wants a new one. Now I have a smartphone, I can
see her Ericsson being dropped RSN.

[l***@eternal-flames.gov]

Post by MattD..
She only does it when she wants a new one. Now I have a smartphone, I can
see her Ericsson being dropped RSN.

It's sad when women get phone-envy. :-)

[Jock.]

Post by MattD..
On Friday 28 Jan 2005 13:03, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by Starr
I use a cotton bud or sponged tipped pipe cleaner and servisol to clean
dirt and grease from components like air caps.

The trouble with this method, Starr, is that it inevitably leaves residue,
no matter how much the makers of these solvents protest it won't, due to
contaminants already there. To really get them clean, as another poster
mentioned, one needs an ultrasonic bath. This ensures that the dislodged
muck is suspended in the solvent, not simply softened and moved around on
the vanes. Those can be picked up from eBay at fairly low cost these days.

These ultrasonic baths are also very useful for other things like
cleaning jewelery, cutlery and a whole host of other things.


Jock.

[MattD..]

On Friday 28 Jan 2005 13:03, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by Starr
I use a cotton bud or sponged tipped pipe cleaner and servisol to clean
dirt and grease from components like air caps.

Sorry, forgot to mention, if anyone recommends a Genklene still, firmly
refuse. 1-1-1 Trichloroethane (Genklene was ICI's tradename for this muck)
is highly dangerous.

[l***@eternal-flames.gov]

Post by MattD..
Sorry, forgot to mention, if anyone recommends a Genklene still, firmly
refuse. 1-1-1 Trichloroethane (Genklene was ICI's tradename for this muck)
is highly dangerous.

Add enough Scotch and you can't taste it.

[MattD..]

On Friday 28 Jan 2005 19:21, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by l***@eternal-flames.gov
Add enough Scotch and you can't taste it.

There's a difference? ;-)

It's frightening, really. I used to remove the diesel grease from my car
windows with the stuff when I was a lab tech. We had squeezy bottles with
spouts full of the stuff for cleaning prototypes. We all went home under
the influence of Genklene.

[Angus McCoatup]

Post by MattD..
On Friday 28 Jan 2005 19:21, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by l***@eternal-flames.gov
Add enough Scotch and you can't taste it.

There's a difference? ;-)
It's frightening, really. I used to remove the diesel grease from my car
windows with the stuff when I was a lab tech. We had squeezy bottles with
spouts full of the stuff for cleaning prototypes. We all went home under
the influence of Genklene.

Banned innit?

[MattD..]

On Friday 28 Jan 2005 21:48, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by Angus McCoatup
Banned innit?

It is now. It wasn't then. Much fun to be had by firing the Genklene still
up without the cold water feed to condense the vapours ;-)

[Angus McCoatup]

Post by MattD..
On Friday 28 Jan 2005 21:48, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by Angus McCoatup
Banned innit?

It is now. It wasn't then. Much fun to be had by firing the Genklene still
up without the cold water feed to condense the vapours ;-)

Wonit that strange stuff that smelt like it would explode with a spark. but
put matches out?

[Custos Custodum]

On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 22:26:21 -0000, "Angus McCoatup"

Post by Angus McCoatup

Post by MattD..
On Friday 28 Jan 2005 21:48, the whim of a few quarks and leptons to be

Post by Angus McCoatup
Banned innit?

It is now. It wasn't then. Much fun to be had by firing the Genklene still
up without the cold water feed to condense the vapours ;-)

Wonit that strange stuff that smelt like it would explode with a spark. but
put matches out?

We had a chemist who sold carbon tet. in bottles labelled 'flammable'.

[l***@eternal-flames.gov]

Post by Custos Custodum
We had a chemist who sold carbon tet. in bottles labelled 'flammable'.

If the bottles were plastic, they were ;-)

[ZZZPK]

"MattD.." <***@gmail.com> wrote:

: Sorry, forgot to mention, if anyone recommends a Genklene still, firmly
: refuse. 1-1-1 Trichloroethane (Genklene was ICI's tradename for this muck)
: is highly dangerous.
now you tell me!!

we used to use that stuff for de-greasing everything..!!

[JC Morrice]

Post by MattD..
1-1-1 Trichloroethane (Genklene was ICI's tradename for this muck)
is highly dangerous.

Pah... that stuffs for weenies! Real men use a bucket of carb tet.

John

[Roger Muggleton]

Post by JC Morrice
Real men use a bucket of carb tet.

When I left school I worked for many years in industrial chemistry.
Practically all the solvents and everything else I used was later discovered
to be extremely toxic, carcinogenic or whatever. Teaching chemistry at
schools must be very difficult these days.

My favourite substances were thionyl chloride and sulphonyl chloride. They
were used for sulphonation and reacted quite fiercely. They gave off clouds
of dense sulphur dioxide and burned any organic material they came in
contact with. Not much good for cleaning switches though. There were also
some fine-smelling reagents commonly used, pyridine, iso-valeric acid, etc.,
all kept in nice 2.5 litre brown bottles. Some reagents were well known for
crawling out of the bottles, like hydrobromic acid, as well as having an
unpleasant odour.

Happy days.

[Brian Howie]

Post by big boy now
I need to know how to clean them
as it looks as if the previous owner has used normal oil on them
and one of them is in need of a good clean as it looks covered in oil
in between the vanes so how can i clean them of all the oil and dirt.
i have an oil that i use with my multi plyer sea fishing real.
this is very fine oil as it has to be fine oil to use in my fishing real.
this oil comes in various grades the finer the grade the faster the line
runs off the fishing real. this can be brought from any fishing shop...
So How can i give the variable capacitors a good old clean i want to remove
every little bit of dirt and oil.
then i will re oil the capacitors correctly...

Switch cleaner spray may do the trick.

Brian

[ZZZPK]

Brian Howie <***@nospam.demon.co.uk> wrote:

: Switch cleaner spray may do the trick.

possible residue of "tide marks"/"run marks"

(been there - still have the marks to prove it)

[big boy now]

All Clean now and what a difference. and how did i clean them..
i first removed them from the ATU. i then took them out side in the open
air. I hung them up by a bit of copper wire and i used a can of carburettor
cleaner and sprayed them clean the pressure in the can and the cleaner
coming out at great pressure did an excellent job there is not a single bit
of grease or oil on any veins and only the parts that should be oiled have
been re oiled..
this carburettor cleaner also evaporates with no residue left behind.
the ATU has been re assembled and its working better than i can
remember........

john

Post by ZZZPK
: Switch cleaner spray may do the trick.
possible residue of "tide marks"/"run marks"
(been there - still have the marks to prove it)

[Jock.]

Post by big boy now
All Clean now and what a difference. and how did i clean them..
i first removed them from the ATU. i then took them out side in the open
air. I hung them up by a bit of copper wire and i used a can of carburettor
cleaner and sprayed them clean the pressure in the can and the cleaner
coming out at great pressure did an excellent job there is not a single bit
of grease or oil on any veins and only the parts that should be oiled have
been re oiled..
this carburettor cleaner also evaporates with no residue left behind.
the ATU has been re assembled and its working better than i can
remember........

Fine, but what was the carburettor cleaner you used?


Jock.

[big boy now]

Carburettor cleaner you can buy this in any car accessory shop.
i can not remember what make it was i had it in my garage.and i used what
was left in the can....carb cleaner as far as i know is all the same thing
its used to clean carbs on cars to burn off all dirt carbon in carbs......i
must mention i wouldn't use this on any variable capacitor that has plastic
parts....my atu is now working like new..
you all learn something new ...

Post by Jock.

Post by big boy now
All Clean now and what a difference. and how did i clean them..
i first removed them from the ATU. i then took them out side in the open
air. I hung them up by a bit of copper wire and i used a can of carburettor
cleaner and sprayed them clean the pressure in the can and the cleaner
coming out at great pressure did an excellent job there is not a single bit
of grease or oil on any veins and only the parts that should be oiled have
been re oiled..
this carburettor cleaner also evaporates with no residue left behind.
the ATU has been re assembled and its working better than i can
remember........

Fine, but what was the carburettor cleaner you used?
Jock.
--
"Collective fear stimulates herd instinct,
and tends to produce ferocity toward those
who are not regarded as members of the herd".
- Archibald Macleish.

[Brian Reay]

Post by big boy now
Carburettor cleaner you can buy this in any car accessory shop.
i can not remember what make it was i had it in my garage.and i used what
was left in the can....carb cleaner as far as i know is all the same thing
its used to clean carbs on cars to burn off all dirt carbon in

carbs......i

Post by big boy now
must mention i wouldn't use this on any variable capacitor that has plastic
parts....my atu is now working like new..
you all learn something new ...

You can also use 'brake cleaner'. However, both can leave a residue- they
can't convert the muck or grease etc to a volatile compound- they dissolve
it so it moves but it has to go somewhere. You can use kitchen towels to
absorb the stuff and then keep rinsing.

For large things, you can do worse than using 'jizer' or 'gunk', followed by
rinsing with tap, then de-ionised water.

[Roger Muggleton]

Post by Brian Reay
For large things, you can do worse than using 'jizer' or 'gunk', followed
by rinsing with tap, then de-ionised water.

Conc Nitric Acid is good for many metal objects. Quick action, lots of
bubbles and lovely brown fumes too! Much better than Ferric Chloride for
etching boards too, only takes a few seconds.

[Brian Reay]

Post by Roger Muggleton

Post by Brian Reay
For large things, you can do worse than using 'jizer' or 'gunk', followed
by rinsing with tap, then de-ionised water.

Conc Nitric Acid is good for many metal objects. Quick action, lots of
bubbles and lovely brown fumes too! Much better than Ferric Chloride for
etching boards too, only takes a few seconds.

Don't try that at home!

When I used to repair clocks (and watches) as a hobby, one of the
traditional cleaning agents I vaguely recall was a mix of ammonia and soap.
I never tried it myself, it always seemed a bit noxious.

A local (professional) clock & watch repairer recommended paraffin followed
by "gunk" for clocks, then the water treatment.

He started out using Benzine for watches but swore by those little jelly
like bulbs of lighter fuel you used to be able to buy.

[l***@eternal-flames.gov]

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 23:51:40 -0000, "Brian Reay"

Post by Brian Reay
When I used to repair clocks (and watches) as a hobby, one of the
traditional cleaning agents I vaguely recall was a mix of ammonia and soap.
I never tried it myself, it always seemed a bit noxious.

Call that noxious? You want to try adding salt to battery-acid.

[Starr]

Post by l***@eternal-flames.gov
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 23:51:40 -0000, "Brian Reay"

Post by Brian Reay
When I used to repair clocks (and watches) as a hobby, one of the
traditional cleaning agents I vaguely recall was a mix of ammonia and soap.
I never tried it myself, it always seemed a bit noxious.

Call that noxious? You want to try adding salt to battery-acid.

Batteries? Luxury. When ah wur a lhad we ad ta merk do with a lemon slahsed
in two and pedal power dahnamoes.

[Roger Muggleton]

Post by l***@eternal-flames.gov
Call that noxious? You want to try adding salt to battery-acid.

Diluting conc sulphuric was the main reason why my lab coats developed
holes.

Compounds containing sulphur often have a nice smell, and metals reacted
with sulphuric acid can produce sulphur dioxide in good quantities. I used
to dissolve lead in boiling sulphuric acid in order to extract antimony - on
the odd occasion I forgot to turn the extractors on, which meant vacating
the lab until the reaction was finished.

[Airy R.Bean]

Agreed.

..... myself, ..... always seemed a bit noxious.

[Starr]

Post by Brian Reay

Post by Roger Muggleton

Post by Brian Reay
For large things, you can do worse than using 'jizer' or 'gunk', followed
by rinsing with tap, then de-ionised water.

Conc Nitric Acid is good for many metal objects. Quick action, lots of
bubbles and lovely brown fumes too! Much better than Ferric Chloride for
etching boards too, only takes a few seconds.

Don't try that at home!
When I used to repair clocks (and watches) as a hobby, one of the
traditional cleaning agents I vaguely recall was a mix of ammonia and soap.
I never tried it myself, it always seemed a bit noxious.

Funny that. I just started collecting clocks. preferably old wind up ones. I
recently acquired an Ansonia. I understand its at least 50 years old the
hinge has broken on the face glass though and the pendulum keeps stopping
unless it's on a really flat surface. I'm having to build a shelf for it..

I wouldn't mind a source of information on clock and watch mechanics.

[Jock.]

Post by Roger Muggleton

Post by Brian Reay
For large things, you can do worse than using 'jizer' or 'gunk', followed
by rinsing with tap, then de-ionised water.

Conc Nitric Acid is good for many metal objects. Quick action, lots of
bubbles and lovely brown fumes too! Much better than Ferric Chloride for
etching boards too, only takes a few seconds.

Yes, why not!

Where are you going to get it? I believe that stuff is on
the poisons register.


Jock.

[Roger Muggleton]

Post by Jock.
Where are you going to get it? I believe that stuff is on
the poisons register.

Goodness knows. I think everything is on the register these days. Nitric
acid is always useful for making explosives, so you would probably be carted
away in the middle of the night, and locked up at Tony Blair's pleasure.

[Jock.]

Post by Roger Muggleton

Post by Jock.
Where are you going to get it? I believe that stuff is on
the poisons register.

Goodness knows. I think everything is on the register these days. Nitric
acid is always useful for making explosives, so you would probably be carted
away in the middle of the night, and locked up at Tony Blair's pleasure.

I once went to a chemist's for some a long time ago and
had to sign the poisons book.


Jock.

[DieSea]

Post by big boy now
Carburettor cleaner you can buy this in any car accessory shop.
i can not remember what make it was i had it in my garage.and i used what
was left in the can....carb cleaner as far as i know is all the same thing
its used to clean carbs on cars to burn off all dirt carbon in carbs......i
must mention i wouldn't use this on any variable capacitor that has plastic
parts....my atu is now working like new..
you all learn something new ...

Try Local Snap Off van on its travels , there are also other vans that visit
flogging cleaning tackle to garages they stock it as well .


DieSea

[Jock.]

Post by big boy now

Post by Jock.

Post by big boy now
All Clean now and what a difference. and how did i clean them..
i first removed them from the ATU. i then took them out side in the open
air. I hung them up by a bit of copper wire and i used a can of carburettor
cleaner and sprayed them clean the pressure in the can and the cleaner
coming out at great pressure did an excellent job there is not a single bit
of grease or oil on any veins and only the parts that should be oiled have
been re oiled..
this carburettor cleaner also evaporates with no residue left behind.
the ATU has been re assembled and its working better than i can
remember........

Fine, but what was the carburettor cleaner you used?

Carburettor cleaner you can buy this in any car accessory shop.
i can not remember what make it was i had it in my garage.and i used what
was left in the can....carb cleaner as far as i know is all the same thing
its used to clean carbs on cars to burn off all dirt carbon in carbs......i
must mention i wouldn't use this on any variable capacitor that has plastic
parts....my atu is now working like new..
you all learn something new ...

Cheers. Will try it.


Jock.